Dublin & Howth, Ireland
- Emmy
- Apr 25, 2022
- 11 min read
Updated: Apr 26
Of all the places I've visited, the people of Dublin, Ireland just might be the nicest and happiest I've come across. Add on the fact that it's an English speaking country and there is plenty to do and see, and it makes for a fun, easy trip - solo or with others.
I spent 7 days in Dublin - the first 3 were solo travel before the start of a conference I attended for incentive travel professionals. In my opinion, 3-4 days is the perfect amount of time to see the highlights of Dublin + fit in a day trip to Howth before venturing onward.
Below are my recommendations for hotels, pubs, restaurants, and sights worth your time while in Dublin.
Be sure to follow me on Instagram at @EmmyDoesTravel to join me on my travels.
Know Before You Go
Flights & Arrival to Dublin, Ireland (DUB)
I flew from DFW > LHR (Dallas Fort Worth to London Heathrow) which I wouldn't recommend. We landed late in London, giving me less than an hour to navigate Heathrow and make my connection, which entailed getting on a tram, following signs for connections, taking a bus from Terminal 5 to Terminal 2, passing through customs, exiting the airport, re-entering security, and sprinting to my gate.
To Barron - the kind Irishman who works for Facebook in Dublin and had the same connection as me - THANK YOU for sprinting through Heathrow with me, carrying my my bag so we could run faster, getting us to the front of all the lines, making sure we made our connection, taking me to the Aer Lingus counter when our bags didn't make the connection, and pointing me in the right direction for a taxi and offering recommendations on things to do and see. I'll never forget your help or kindness! Irish people are the best.
If you can't get a direct flight, I recommend at least getting a connection direct from somewhere within the U.S. to DUB so as to avoid navigating an international airport. From the U.S., direct flights to Dublin are currently offered out of New York, Boston, Chicago, San Francisco, and D.C. Starting in May 2022, a direct flight will also be offered from Dallas to Dublin.
Most flights arriving from the U.S. put you landing in Dublin in the morning hours. Ask for an early check-in when you book your hotel so you can freshen up before you venture out to explore and acclimate to GMT+1. I always try to get on local time as soon as possible, which often means staying up all day upon arrival when all you want to do is take a nap. When weather allows, I find taking in the sunshine and fresh air (+ a latte or two) is the best approach.
Getting A Taxi At The Dublin Airport
Grabbing a taxi from the airport to the hotel was very easy. The signs to the taxi line are well labeled and the line moved quickly; after just 5-10 minutes, I was on my way to the Conrad Hilton Dublin. All taxis take credit card, and I never even pulled out cash.
Things To Do In Advance
Uber is not available in Dublin but you can use a similar app called "Free Now" to get around. Despite its confusing name, the app does not offer "free" rides - rather, it finds taxis that are currently open (or "free now") for passengers. The drivers come quickly and you can easily identify your ride by matching the taxi number in the app to the taxi number on top of the car (not by the license plate number like is used in the U.S.).
Dive into the Visit Dublin website to explore the city like a local. It offers great tips on where to go, what to do, and what not to miss. If I'd had more time, I would have checked out more of the coastal adventures on this list.
Where To Stay In Dublin
I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at the Hilton Conrad Dublin. The hotel is in a great location, directly across from the National Concert Hall and just a 5-10 minute walk to Grafton & Dawson streets. I enjoyed being close enough to those areas to get to them quickly on foot, but far enough away that I wasn't in the middle of the tourist action and it was blissfully quiet at night.
Service at the Conrad was top notch. Each member of the hotel team was friendly and accommodating from the moment I arrived (I was incredibly grateful they had my room ready upon arrival at 9:15 am). The front desk team was readily available to answer questions and help me decide where to eat, what to see, and how to best navigate the city alone. Breakfast service was prompt and I loved having a coffee shop directly in the hotel.
To provide more color on the high level of service: I started following the hotel on Instagram after I booked it. A week before I arrived, they shared a picture of a latte with a guest's name in it, to which I responded that I looked forward to receiving the same when I got there the following week. On day two at breakfast, they surprised me with a latte with my instagram name (Emmy) written in it (my hotel reservation was under Emily). It was customized touches like this throughout the week that made an already great stay even more special. Thank you to everyone at the Conrad for making my stay so memorable.
Note: My rate ranged from €200/night (an excellent rate thanks to Amex Platinum) to €300 /night (the conference rate).
If you'd like to be closer to the action, The Westbury Hotel or The Shelbourne Hotel are other great options.
Top Sights & Things To Do In Dublin
Day Trip to Howth
Howth deserves its own post, which you can check out soon. In short, it's absolutely worth the quick trip over from Dublin. You'll want to spend anywhere from a half day to a full day in Howth and can get there via boat, car, or dart. As a solo traveler, I found the Dart very easy to navigate and enjoyed a window seat to take in the surrounding areas of Dublin on the 25 minute trek that took me past cute towns and scenic golf courses.
All I can say is WOW. I could walk through St. Stephens Green every single day. The beautiful, historic park is centrally located and just across the street from the Conrad. I loved walking through the park to get to most places and was enamored by the gorgeous cherry blossoms lining the paths, vast array of tulips and other beautiful blooms, and birds, swans, and sculptures in every direction. Because of it's central location, you are sure to find yourself near the park at some point - take the time to walk through all the different areas or grab lunch to eat in the park. You won't be disappointed!
Trinity College is Ireland's highest ranked university. The campus is beautiful and seeing the Old Library and the Book of Kells was such a treat. The library is considered one of the world's most beautiful and you'll understand why when you enter the Long Room, full of 200,000+ books housed in stunning oak shelves. For those that don't know, the Book of Kells, considered one of Ireland's greatest cultural treasures, is an illuminated manuscript containing the four Gospels of the New Testament in Latin.
One need not be a book or library lover to be completely blown away here. Plan for a little over 1 hour to see the campus, library, and Book of Kells.
The Guinness Storehouse was pretty freaking cool. Keep in mind, I saw it while attending a private event where we had the entire Storehouse to ourselves. I do not drink and still found the experience to be completely worthwhile. There is so much to see and history to learn, but the real highlights for me were getting a picture of my face printed in the foam of my Guinness (0.0 of course) and seeing nighttime views of Dublin from the gravity bar.
At seven stories tall, I was surprised at how big the facility is. I would imagine you might want a few hours to go through the entire self guided tour during normal business hours. In addition to the Guinness website, the Visit Dublin website offers helpful information for your visit about reservations and tickets.
Things To Lump Together In A Day
The next items on the list are in close proximity to one another and could all be done in one day. I'd recommend starting at the castle before it gets too crowded, then walking to see the beautiful Cathedrals, and ending your afternoon at Jameson.
Dublin Castle is the heart of historic Dublin. It is one of the most important buildings in Irish history, which you can learn more about here from Visit Dublin. It is home to the magnificent State Apartments, the Chapel Royal, a 13th century Tower, and some Medieval structures. Highlights for me included the intricately designed ceilings, the throne that was installed for the visit of King George IV in August 1821, a Waterford crystal chandelier, and and a brass chandelier from 1839 (one of a set of five ornate brass chandeliers commissioned for the Throne Room featuring rose, thistle, and shamrock motifs emblematic of England, Scotland, and Ireland).
There was a light crowd when I arrived around 4 pm and it took me less than an hour to go through.
You'll want to snap pictures of the beautiful historic church on the inside and out. It's €10 to see the inside of the church, which I opted against since I felt there was enough to see from the outside and enjoyed the small free area inside where you see the stained glass up close. Be sure to walk inside and look at the gorgeous stained glass.
You can't go to Dublin and not see the famous St. Patricks Cathedral. It was built in the 1200's and is one of few buildings left from medieval Dublin. I saw it while aboard a bus, so did not capture any photos.
When in Dublin, the Jameson Distillery is a must-do. Between the tours, blending experiences, tastings, master classes, and gift shop, there is something for everyone. Even if you don't do a tour (like myself), you can pop into JJ's for a beverage or to see the tasting room. It's a laid back atmosphere and a great place to meet fellow travelers.
Best Pubs in Dublin
There is no shortage of pubs in Dublin, as you'll quickly learn. Most close by midnight, music tends to stop around 10, and kitchens close by 9, so plan accordingly. I'm not sure there is a bad pub in Dublin; the three I enjoyed the most were O'Donoghue's, The Temple Bar, and Quays Bar.
O'Donoghues seems to be a favorite amongst both Dubliners and tourists. We got a front row seat for the talented (and very good looking!) Irish band, who were belting out songs without microphones and passing their banjo and guitars back and forth from song to song. They sang traditional Irish music and fun American songs we all know and love. After the music ended we discovered a large outdoor patio that was just as fun as the party indoors.
The Temple Bar is a complete tourist trap, but it's so much fun that I'm willing to throw that out the window. At all hours of the day, you will meet locals and travelers alike. Everyone is happy and just looking to have a fun time, singing to the live music, making friends, and snapping photos and videos of the Irish decor that fills the walls. To the the 22-year olds from London on a stag, thanks for telling me I look 25. :)
For a quieter spot, duck into the Whiskey & Cigar shop next door. They have walls of of the best whiskey and a great small bar area, perfect for making new friends.
Like many pubs, The Quays Bar is in the heart of Dublin’s famous Temple Bar area. (Note: There is an area called "Temple Bar" and within that area is a pub called "The Temple Bar"). Like the others, Quays is a lively mixture of locals and tourists. As you walk by, you'll be able to look in the front window to see if a band is playing.
When the clock strikes midnight and the pubs are closing and you're not ready to go home, try Bad Bobs. They seem to get away with staying open a bit later than the other pubs.
Local Recommendations
I didn't make it to these spots that a local recommended to me near the end of my trip, but they seem like great pubs to check out: The Church (for traditional Irish dancing), Doheny & Nesbitt, Brogan's Bar, and Piper's Corner.
Great Restaurants To Eat At In Dublin
The great debate - do you tip at restaurants in Dublin? In my experience, most restaurants closed out the tab without the opportunity to tip. A few did offer the opportunity and were incredibly grateful for 10-15%.
Suesey Street was by far my favorite meal in Dublin. The restaurant has a slightly upscale feel with great service and food. I loved the cauliflower florets, dry aged rib eye, and the brownie for dessert. It was the perfect spot for a solo travel meal - the dining room is beautifully decorated, the clientele is lovely, and the service is outstanding. As a party of one, there was no wait to be seated; I'd recommend securing a reservation if you are going with a group.
Fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced ingredients made for a very delicious lunch. From the farm fresh salad (the tomatos were still on the vine) to the vegetables to the deliciously seasoned rack of lamb, there was nothing I didn't like. Be sure to order the milk sorbet for dessert.
For a quaint, local feel, The Pig's Ear is where it's at. You'll walk upstairs to dine in what feels like a cozy living room with beautiful, creaky wood floors. I enjoyed the bread, olives, scallops, cod, and chocolate praline dessert. Strike up a conversation with the owner, who is very friendly. The concierge made a reservation and they knew who I was when I walked in. I'd recommend a making a reservation or calling ahead to secure a spot.
The House is a darling establishment open for breakfast, lunch & dinner. Whether you're inside or out, the ambiance and decor is lovely with bright pops of color, pretty prints, and string lights - perfect for a fun girls brunch or night out.
A little more "touristy" than I would normally recommend, but it was a great steak and a fun meal with colleagues. I had heard Fire was awarded the "Best Luxury Steakhouse Globally" in 2020 & 2021 before I went, so think I was expecting better. It's a solid meal but coming from Texas, I wouldn't call it one of the best "luxury" steakhouses I've ever been to. :) When I called, they said they were completely booked for the evening, though a few minutes later a reservation opened on Open Table and I was able to snag it and go. They seated me 15-20 minutes late, but offered a great cocktail lounge while I waited.
In the heart of Dawson street, Cafe en Seine is an easy place to pop in for a casual lunch, happy hour, or dinner. It has a great ambiance with an indoor/outdoor street garden that is very picturesque.
Fun Shopping In Dublin
If you're a girly girl like me, just go here and thank me later. Fashion, jewelry, homeware, gifts, etc. at affordable prices.
Essentially, the Bloomingdale's of Dublin and a one stop shop for all things. A great place to go if your bag gets lost.
I stumbled upon this outdoor shopping area roaming the streets. With the indoor/outdoor setup, it reminded me a bit of the Charleston market, full of different retailers set up in an old victorian Arcade.
All images belong to Emily Carman (@EmmyDoesTravel); Do not use without providing image credit.
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